St Mary's, Buriton

A Brief History of the St. Mary's Church - Buriton

"The hills stand round about Jerusalem; even so standeth the Lord round about his people from this time forth for ever more." Psalm 125

THIS fine Church is set on high ground. On one side lies the Manor House, mentioned in the records of St. Swithun's monastery, at Winchester[1], in 1325. To the south are the hangers of the South Downs. Across the pond stands the Old Rectory, which was built to the plan of an early 14th century manor house with a hall and solar. It contains the remains of an early 14th century window in the roof space of the solar and roof timbers of a coeval date. This house would have represented the early paramount manor of Mapledurham and the present Manor House, a sub-manor.

It is large for a village Church, having been the mother Church for a parish of 6,000 acres including Petersfield and Sheet. Petersfield with Sheet became a separate parish in 1886, and St. Mary's, Sheet, was built in 1868.

The Norman Church we see was built between 1150 and 1200, but a previous Church is listed in the Doomsday Book of 1086. The manor of Mapledurham, of which Buriton was the centre, was Saxon. In the reign of Edward the Confessor it was held by Wulfgifu Beteslau, but at the Norman Conquest William deprived her of her lands and granted the manor to his wife, Matilda.

In 1877/8 the Church was closed for a year for extensive restoration which included a new roof, repairs to two Nave arches, and a new Chancel arch and Screen[2]. The Chancel roof was raised, the East window and the windows of the North aisle were renewed. The Church was re-seated and general repairs were carried out which included removal of the Clerk's Desk and the Reading Desk. The work was done by Messrs. Lewis of West Meon under the supervision of the architect, Sir Arthur Blomfield. Other Blomfield Churches in the district are Chawton near Alton, Privett, St Mary's Liss and St Mary's Portsea. During the year in which the Church was closed Services were held in the Church School, but a marriage took place 'in the Church without a roof'.

A variety of stone has been incorporated in the Church building: Upper Greensand malmstone in the Nave arcades; Caen stone in the internal details of the Chancel; Sandstone in some of the earlier original windows, especially in the Chancel's South windows; Bath stone in the North Aisle fenestration, and flint as a facing on the exterior walls, probably replacing earlier deteriorating stone.

The Nave in Transitional Normal style is of four bays with typical rounded pillars and moulded capitals, the two western bays having earlier details than those towards the east. The finest capital, with detail of water lily leaves, is beside the Pulpit. This one was restored in 1877. The roof is of trussed rafter and crossbeams, supported between each arch by a stone corbel. The oak Lectern was given in memory of John Sumner, Rector 1845-86 and brother-in-law of Mary Sumner who founded the Mothers' Union. The stone used in the Nave is largely of the local Upper Greensand malmstone which is variable in quality, and there has been a good deal of patching over the years.

The North Aisle fell and was rebuilt in 1764, the windows being renewed in 1877. The West End window is an 1877 addition, containing beautiful modern glass inserted in 1917 in memory of John Goodyer 1592-1664[3]. John Goodyer is famous as one of the first great botanists. He lived in The Spain, Petersfield, his house being in the tithing of Weston. He lies buried in the Churchyard without a stone. He left his house and land to form the Goodyer Charity which still distributes the income to help young people within the old tithing of Weston who are starting out in life.

The South Aisle was rebuilt about 1300, and widened to provide room for the Lady Chapel. The large window in it is decorated early 14th century style and was presumably added to bring light into the Nave. The glass is Victorian. At the east end stands a 17th century Communion Table with baluster legs and moveable top. Above this the window of three graduated trefoil-headed lights and small tracery trefoil lights, is of the early 14th century period, but the stonework has been renewed when the glass was added. On the south side is a fine arched Piscina for the washing of the Communion vessels. The South Doorway dates from about 1300. The South Porch was rebuilt in 1860, and does no credit to the Church. For 800 years the babies of Buriton have been baptised in the Norman Font of Purbeck Marble, of the late 12th century, standing on a round central shaft with four supporting columns. It would be interesting to know what symbols were so completely removed by chisel. It is suggested that the surfaces were varnished to reduce the effect of the scars. The wooden Victorian cover of the Font was a gift from Holy Trinity Church, Aldershot, in 1928[4]. The Font originally stood at the west end of this aisle, now the Choir Vestry. It was moved to its present position in 1957[5], and surrounded by the floor of old London paving stones. On either side of the rim of the Font are the lead insertions which were designed to hold staples. An Order of 1234 directed that fonts should be covered and locked, to prevent the water being taken away for sacrilegious purposes.

The Chancel is entered through a fine oak Rood Screen erected at the extensive restoration of 1878. The screen is an exact copy of the former 16th century screen.

This part of the Church was rebuilt and enlarged at the end of the 13th century, a time when the continental wool trade brought prosperity to this sheep farming district and before the Black Death, spreading from Southampton, decimated the population around 1348. It was also a time of military prowess under Edward I and, with the introduction of the long bow, the menfolk of the parish would be obliged after Service to repair to the butts for archery practice.

The East window, of Early English design, is dated about 1270 and has been much restored. It contains good modern glass from the Whitefriars Glass factory in memory of John Bonham-Carter who died in 1884. There are two corbel heads, one of a bishop, the other of a king, finishing the string course on either side of the window.

To the south of the Altar of 1931 is a beautiful Piscina and rare threefold Sedilia with the arches twice stepped downwards. It will be noted how well the difficulty of this design has been mastered. Within the canopies of the arches are traces of 13th century painting.

Set in the floor of the Choir are six encaustic tiles made about 1260. These, all that remain of the original floor, came from the same local kiln as those found in the ruins of Durford Abbey, which are now preserved in Lewes Museum. Similar tiles are to be seen in Warblington Church and Winchester Cathedral.

The Priests' Vestry on the north side is contemporary with the Chancel and is a rare addition for that period. The Vestry door and the Priests' door opposite show original stonework and are beautiful. To the right of the Vestry door is a recess which originally had locking wooden doors, and was probably an Aumbry.

On the jamb of the window behind the Clergy Stall are traces of 13th century painting of the Madonna and Child, below which are two lines of description, later work, which cannot now be deciphered. The preservation of this painting, and the scroll work on the opposite jamb, is due to the blocking in of the lower section in the 16th century. The sloping marks of the blocking can be seen on the jambs on either side. The glazed part of the section beneath the transom is an interesting example of a 'low-side window'. These are to be found in many Churches in the south country, and usually in this position. They were originally closed with wooden shutters within and without, a surviving example being in Downton Church, Wiltshire. The reason for these openings is obscure and several suggestions have been made. They may have been Confessional openings used by the travelling Friars between the 13th and 16th centuries. At the time of the Reformation this practice was officially discouraged, which could account for the blocking of the opening. (Reference to Low-side windows is made in the Proceedings of the Hampshire Field Club, Vol. X, Part 2 of 1928).

Looking west from the Chancel the fine proportions of the Early English arch, 13th century, can be well appreciated. This arch stands upon stone tables which are not central to the building. These are thought to indicate the west wall and entrance to an earlier Church, possibly with no tower. The fact that the Nave is irregular, being 9 inches narrower at the east than at the west end, may indicate that the later building was adjusted to fit the earlier foundations.

The Tower, 48 feet 6 inches in height, is a replacement made of ironstone with stone dressings. It is probable that the original steeple was a 13th century structure, built at the same time as the arch noted above. It was considerably higher than the present tower and must have looked well from the village street. The Churchwardens Book records:

"Monday morning between 4 and 5 of the clock, the 17th day of November anno 1712, Berriton Steeple, being shingled and about 80 foot high, took fire by a very terrible tempest of thunder and lightning nigh the top, and was burn'd down. The foure bells were brak down and melted. The new tower was rebuilt in anno 1715 at the expense of the parish and by several good benefactors. The barnes at the Manor House oft caught fire but the people prevented the damage and saved them. "

The cost of pulling down and rebuilding amounted to £320.15.7, which included casting and re hanging the five new bells. A clock, with face towards the Manor House was erected at a cost of £20. The present clock, on the west face, was the gift of Mr. J. R. Bennion, of Nursted House, in 1906.

"Ye carriage of ye biggest bell" from London amounted to £1.12.0.

The cost was defrayed out of the Church Rate, and by the proceeds of a Brief which was advertised with authority of the Bishop. Before the age of Insurance these Briefs provided a good means of mutual help in times of sudden financial need.

The Bonham-Carter family owns a lithographic print of about 1840, which depicts a window of three slightly graduated round-arched lights in place of the present West door. There is evidence for the presence of this window shown by the alteration in the ironstone of the wall above the present door, where flint has been used for in-filling. The print shows a clock in the top of the North face of the Tower.

The Belfry. On the walls of the Ringing Chamber are two painted inscriptions coeval with the tower. One records the rebuilding of the tower, the other being a rare 'Ringers' Rule:-

Advice to ringers and to such
That delight in bells and love ye Church
Beware of oaths and quarrelings
Take heed of clams and janglings
There is no musik played or sung
Like unto bells if they are well rung
Do you keep silence and forbear
Of smoking of tobacco here
If you your bell doth overthrow
It is your four pence before you go
If you ring in hat or spurs
Be sure you pay make no demurs.

Bells. In 1552 there were 'three great bells'; by 1712 there were four, which were replaced by five in the new tower. The present Treble was given by Mrs. Seward of Weston in 1935 in memory of her daughter. This completes a melodious ring of six bells, the Tenor weighing 8 cwt. 3 qtr. 12 lb.

Memorials. In the Choir Vestry, on the south side of the tower, is an altar tomb with black marble cover, surrounded by wrought iron railings. It is in memory of Thomas Bilson, Susanna his wife, and their children. Thomas, who died in 1692, was a great-grandson of Bishop Bilson of Winchester. Above, upon the wall, is a particularly fine white marble monument to Leonard Bilson and Elenor his wife, which reads:

"In hopes of a joyful resurrection, in the vault adjoyning this pillar doth rest the body of Leonard Bilson of West Mapledurham Esqr, who having lived an excellent example of Piety, Loyalty, Hospitality and Chanty, departed this life the tenth day of Dec 1695 and in the yeare of his age 81.

In the same vault doe lye the bodys of his two only sonns viz. of Thomas Bilson Esqr who died the 1st day of July 1692 in the year of his age 37. And of Lewis Bilson who died the 24th day of Janr 1695, and in the year of his age 36.

Elenor Bilson daughter of Sir William Lewis Bart. and only wife to Leonard Bilson (but now his sorrowful relict) erected this monument to the pious memory of her late beloved husband. "

Elenor Bilson died on December 12th, 1700.

This family acquired the manor of West Mapledurharn from the Shelley family in 1605 as a result of the persecution of Roman Catholics, and the lands remained in the family until 1966.

Nearby are several brass memorial plates to members of the Hanbury family who were Lords of the paramount manor of Mapledurham and lived in the Manor House beside the Church. The Hanburys were resident in Buriton for almost the whole of the 17th century, the manor passing out of the family in 1691. There were five Thomas Hanburys in all, and when the last Thomas failed to marry, there was no male heir. These plates were removed from the ledger stones covering burials beneath the floor of the Church, which were transferred to the Churchyard when the floors were renewed. On the inside wall of this Vestry is a brass plate in memory of William Warne, Scrivenor and Citizen of London, who died in 1697. His signature is on parish legal documents of the period and so we have his handwriting recorded. As a Scrivenor, or Scribe, he would be one of the few in the whole community who could read and write, and he must accordingly have been a man of some importance. Incidentally this plate appears to have been used at some time for target practice. Another memorial plate with a history is the small and finely scribed brass to Anne Bilson, 1644. This was dredged from the Village Pond in 1925.

On the wall on either side of the apex of the tower arch, there are two funeral hatchments. These were hung over the front door of the deceased during the period of mourning and then laid up in the Church. They represent, on the left, Lee of Shropshire who married Costomer of Yarmouth, and on the right, Lee of Shropshire who married Pym of Sidford in Devon. The family of Lee lived in the parish during the whole of the 18th century. From the registers we cannot gain much information but Thomas Lee who died in 1716 was a Bencher of Lincolns Inn, and it appears that they may have lived in Sheet.

Near the Font, high up on one wall, is a stone memorial to Jesse Ayling, Mason, who died in 1710, age 45. He lived in the parish and perhaps he died as a result of an accident whilst working on the Church. Farther up the aisle are memorials to members of the Seward family of Weston, who served the parish as Churchwardens for ninety-five years successively.

In the Chancel, on the south wall, is a beautifully scribed slate memorial to 'Anne Layfield ,Virgo pie', the daughter of the Rector of 1688-99. On the north wall is a fine black marble memorial engraved with the figures of the second Thomas Hanbury, 1617, his last wife Elizabeth Grigg, together with six sons and two daughters. High on this wall and easily missed is a memorial in slate not to be overlooked. William Lowth, Rector from 1699 to 1732, leaves his epitaph for the good advice of succeeding generations of Buriton people:

'Near the outside of this wall lyeth the body of William Lowth, late Rector of this Church, who died May ye 17th 1732. And being dead desires to speak to his beloved parishioners, and sweetly to exhort them constantly to attend public worship of God, frequently to receive the Holy Communion and diligently to observe the good instruction given in this place, to breed up their children in the fear of God and to follow peace with all men and holiness, without which no man shall see God.
God give us all a happy meeting at the resurrection of the just. "

Rector and Mrs. Lowth lie beneath the two altar tombs outside the Priests' Door.

When the Church was restored a number of burials were removed from beneath the floor. One remains, at the west end of the Nave, to Hillard and Jane Hely, 1761. The following[6] are known to have been removed:

a. Thomas Lee, Bencher of Lincolns Inn. (To which family the hatchments refer).

b. Edmund Barker, D.D., Rector, 1688, aged 67, and Isabella his wife.

c. Mrs. Roberts, wife of Wenman Roberts. Jan. 1, 1744/5, aged 28. (Ledger Stone in South Porch).

d. Mrs. Margaret Turner, wife of Thomas, 1748, aged 3 1. (Ledger Stone in South Porch).
(These two ladies were sisters of the Hugonin family of Nursted House).

e. Thomas Hanbury, son of Thomas, gt. grandson of Auditor Hanbury, 1668).

f. Susanna Hanbury, wife of Thomas, 1661.

g. Thomas Hanbury, son of Thomas and Susanna,1686, aged 28.

h. Katherine Hanbury, relict of Thomas, daughter of Sir John Jeffrys of Southampton. 1678, aged 71.

i. Emma Hanbury, wife of Thomas, an Auditor of the Queen's Court 1595.

j. Susanna, wife of Samuel Palmer, Prebend of Winchester, daughter of Thomas Hanbury, 1687, aged 29.

k. Hic jacet Sam. Palmer, AM. Ecclesiae Cath Winton Canonicus, quit obiit Oct 30th anno dni 1701, aet sui 55.

l. Mrs. Mary Lowth, mother of William Lowth, Rector. 1721 , aged 8 8. On her right hand lieth the body of her sister Mrs. Elizabeth Dowse, 1725.

m. This marble to Margaret, wife of Richard Holt Esq. (of Nursted House). 17 Aug. 1685, lieth buried in the seat belonging to the family. Eighth daughter of Richard Whitehead of West Tuderlie, Southampton. (West Tytherley).

n. Anne Bilson daughter of Sir Thomas Bilson, 1644.

The Vestry Book quotes from the Hampshire Telegraph of 1838:- "A daring outrage. The hardened wretches broke open the vault of Gen. and Mrs. Hugonin and stole the brass handles off the coffins". It would seem that this was also a vault within the Church.

Of the Church memorials the most important and historic is the War Memorial on the right within the west door. It commemorates 39 men of Buriton who fell in the First World War. Apart from the human side, and few village families were not affected, such a heavy loss of men in their prime from a small community altered irretrievably the pattern of village life which had been maintained through the centuries.

Church Music. The old Church orchestra was succeeded by a barrel-organ[7] until 1897 when the Organ was given by Mrs. Bennion. The organ was set back within the new arch in 1911, when the Lamp Room behind the organ was built. The Choir was first robed in 1937.

Lighting. The Electric Lighting dates from 1938. It replaced 19 oil lamps for winter use, and candles in the summer.

Heating. The central heating system was presented by Mr. J. R. Bennion in 1896. This replaced a stove which stood in the north-west corner at the back of the Nave. It is said that the men took up the back seats at this time.

Registers. The Register in possession runs from 1678 to the present day. The early books are written on parchment which was possibly made in Buriton. The Tithe Map of 1840 shows that Parchment Yard was situated adjacent to what is now 'Pillmead House'. The earlier entries of burials include the affidavit that the burial was in sheep's wool. This was by Act of Parliament to protect the wool trade which was at this time decreasing. The name of Edward Gibbon (father of the historian) occurs in the Register when he became Churchwarden. He was Lord of the Manor in his time.

The Churchwarden's Book starts in 1727. It records the accounts of the Churchwardens through the years. Poor Relief is the greatest expense. Poor Rate at 2d. in the £ in 1727 amounts to £ 10.17.6. Laurence Patrick was the Churchwarden making the account. Pest destruction is a frequent item. The Constable received £ 1.10.0 per annum. Following are extracts:

Plate. The Church Plate includes a silver flagon, the bequest of Mrs. Mary Lowth, daughter of the Rector, and a fine silver chalice and pattern dated 1669 and regularly used since that time.

The Terrier of 1552, reads:

Imprimis Pix silver gilt - Box silver gilt - Cope Blew silk, lj (2) vestments greene silk, white vestment of silk - white fustian - three great bells in steeple - saunce bell - holy waterpot - pair of sensers, brass – 111j (4) small sacring bells. All the rest stollen almost lj years past.

Thomas Coke, Wyllyam Patrick.

Rectors. It is considered that the parochial system came into being in about 1100 A.D., but the first known list of parishes, rural deaneries, and archdeaconries is in "Pope Nicholas' Taxation" in 1291, which was drawn up to finance the French wars. By this time there was a settled order of Church, Parson and Tithe, and in most parishes the first known "persona" dates from about this time.

The list for this parish follows:

Until 1886 Buriton was the mother Church of the district and John Sumner was the last Rector of Buriton-cum-Petersfield and Sheet. We know of Walter de Lichlad through his dealings with the Abbot of Durford on the subject of tithes said to be due to the Abbey. Benjamin Laney became Bishop and left land to the parish, the income of which is used for the apprenticing of youths of the parish. During the reign of Charles II Edmund Barker had a dispute with Richard Cowper, lord of the manor of Ditcham, concerning the tithing of the beech woods of Ditcham Park. Richard "used threatings, lampooned and made scandalous and reflecting verses which did very much disquiet and discompose Dr Barker "

The Churchyard. No description of the Church is complete without reference to the graveyard. The entrance gates to the Church and Churchyard are of wrought iron, of similar design to the surround of the Bilson tomb of 1739. These gates are hung on Victorian cast iron pillars which used to support an arch on which was placed the oil lamp. The pathway ledger stones have been moved to one side and replaced with herringbone brickwork.

The Church from certain angles appears to be crouching. This is on account of the ground level having risen some 2 feet 6 inches. It will be remembered that this has been the resting ground for the people of the place for close on 1,000 years. It is indeed hallowed ground. The Records show that in 1830 the ground was moved from the walls of the Church down to the inside level and the brick gutters were laid. This shows how much the ground has risen through the years.

The Churchyard contains much of the personal history of the village. It must suffice to refer to one memorial stone whose simple inscription records so much in the life of a family:

SACRED TO THE MEMORY OF THE CHILDREN OF

 Their parents died in 1890 and 1892.

The following summary from the Burial Registers speaks for itself with regard to population increase, advance in medical knowledge, and expectation of life:

1813/23                   1990/10                   1945/55

Under 2 years       24                            14                            6

2 to 20 years        25                            15                            2

Over 20 years       69                            89                           102

                          118                          118                          110

Average age         36                            47                            69

The Churchyard was enlarged in 1865 and the lower part was incorporated in 1906. The present Cemetery is in South Lane, formerly known as Toads Alley.

The decorative carving on two 18th century tombstones, south of the Church. The inscription on the first refers to William Binsted who died in August 1775 aged 17 years, the lower one to William Keats, who died in 1757.

Historical Note. Buriton is the westernmost of a line of ancient settlements situated on the Upper Greensand beneath the north escarpment of the South Downs. These settlements took advantage of the abundant natural springs, with downland pasture on the one hand and the light arable soils of the lower levels. Between the village and Petersfield runs a band of Gault clay. Petersfield stands on the Folkestone Beds of sand and sandstone, so in all there is a wide variety of soils within the parish. Within the village area are signs of Bronze Age and Roman occupation, so it may be that there have been people living here for at least 3,500 years.

At the time of the Domesday Survey of 1086 Buriton was included in the extensive Manor of Mapledresham. The Manor comprised the tithings of Weston, Buriton, Nursted and Sheet. Petersfield was awarded Borough status in the 12th century, but owed dues to the manor until relinquished to John Jolliffe in 1739. The lands of the sub manor of West Mapledurham lay chiefly on the west side of the Petersfield to Portsmouth road, but included Bolinge Hill Farm. The Elizabethan mansion of West Mapledurham was pulled down about 1829 and was replaced by a farm house known as Mapledurham House. At the time of the Reformation West Mapledurham was a Papist stronghold and there are records of priests taking refuge there. "At Mapledurham there is a hollow place in the parlour by the livery cupboard where two men may well lie together, which has many times deceived the searchers."

The name Buriton, pronounced "Berriton" has been variously spelt through the centuries. In the Charter Rolls of 1227 it is known as Buriton, and the Inquisitio Post Mortern of 1229 gives Bergton. The Dictionary of Place Names gives the derivation of the name as Old English, either Byrgtun, "the settlement by the fort" or Beorgtun, "the settlement by the hill".

Conclusion. So ends part of the story of the Church and people of this typical English village. The story is always incomplete. Henry Bone, who died in 1921 sang, as a boy, in the Musician's Gallery. This Gallery partially closed the Western Arch; stone replacements indicate where it was fixed. This boy's father was Parish Clerk for forty years, preceded the Rector into Church and sat beside him during Service. His ancestor was Churchwarden when the Tower was rebuilt in 1715.

The Living of Buriton is a Rectory. In outward appearance there is nothing to choose between a Vicar and a Rector. It is a question of Tithes. Historically the Rector of Buriton received the Tithe for the whole parish, and appointed the Curate of Petersfield who served under him. In the records up to the 16th century the title of the Rector is Magister and the Curate is referred to as Dominus.

A Rector may be clerical or lay and he appointed the Vicar.

Simon Passelewe in 1260 was appointed by the King. But certainly from 1318 onwards the advowson of Buriton has been in the gift of the Bishop - Winchester up to 1926, and now Portsmouth. The Rector lived in the Old Rectory until 1952.

History is continually in the making, but it can be said for certain that on this site worship of Almighty God has continued for a thousand years and more.

This History, 1993, Revised, with new material, by Elizabeth des Brisay. With acknowledgements to Rodney Hubbuck for his generous advice on Church Architecture. Illustrations by Lewis des Brisay.